Tackle

Building Leaders

The leader is the business end, get it right. A simple length of the right material between your braid and your lure or fly solves visibility, abrasion and shock in one, once you know how to build it.

Your braided main line is thin, visible and has no abrasion resistance, which is exactly why you tie a leader to the end of it. A leader is just a length of the right material between the braid and the lure or fly, and building a good one is a simple, high-value skill.

Material and length

For most inshore fishing, a fluorocarbon leader (for its invisibility and toughness) of a few feet, joined to the braid, covers it. Go longer and lighter for clear water and spooky fish (albies and bonito want long, light fluoro), and shorter and heavier around structure and teeth. Use mono when you want stretch and shock absorption.

Bite guards and wire

When the target has teeth, bluefish, wahoo, sharks, add a short bite guard of heavy fluorocarbon, or a wire trace for the toothiest fish. This short shock section saves your lures and fish.

The connections

A leader is only as good as its knots. Connect braid to leader with an FG knot (thin and strong) or a double uni (quick and easy); join to a heavy leader with a slim beauty or Albright; and tie the lure on with a Palomar or a loop knot for action.

Tip Match your leader to the fish and the water, not habit. Clear, calm, spooky conditions call for a longer, lighter leader; heavy structure and toothy fish call for a shorter, tougher one. Carry a couple of spools and adjust.

From the page to the water

Learn it here, land it out there

Reading is a great start. The fastest way to get good is a day on the water with someone who does it every day.

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Note: fishing regulations (size limits, bag limits, seasons, permits) change often. Always confirm current rules with the Massachusetts Division of Marine Fisheries (saltwater), MassWildlife (freshwater), or NOAA Fisheries (offshore/HMS) before you keep a fish.